My Favourite Vegan Places in Milan
Pizza, croissants, aperitivo - Milan has got it all, and it's all plant-based.
Kind of Wild is a weekly newsletter on vegan travel and ethical luxury. I am a 40-something published author, podcaster, public speaker, charity PR specialist and writer. I speak four languages and live in Brighton, UK. I’ve been vegan for over a decade. I want to save the world - but I also want to experience it.
I was living in Milan when I first decided I wanted to go vegan.
I had just read Eating Animals by Jonathan Safran Foer, was chatting a lot online with vegans in the US, and all signs were pointing to it being my time to take the step. But Milan, in all its risotto glory, appeared to be less than the perfect place for it. I remember the exhilaration of finding a vegan “croissant” in a café, followed by the deflation of realising that it was merely a sweet bun wrapped in plastic. Watching my husband tear flake after flake off his actual croissant (almond-flavoured, no less) almost made me tear up.
Fast forward to my latest trip to Milan - ten days ago - and let’s just say that things are slightly different now.
Granted, I don’t go out to eat a lot when I’m in Milan. I have a mother-in-law who cooks the most amazing Italian food, and why would you pay for restaurants when you have access to authentic, home-cooked Mediterranean flavours at home? But given the growth of the vegan scene in Milan (and in Italy generally - 2.3% of Italians are vegan), I do like to occasionally get out there and indulge.
Here are some of my favourite plant-based eateries in Milan (please note that this is not a comprehensive guide! For the reasons mentioned above, this is only a little list of places I’ve tried and loved. But to make it a bit more inclusive, I’ve also featured places I’ve not been, but heard good things about).
Pizza
Okay, let’s bring out the big guns straight away and be done with it. Honestly, I have not had a pizza with vegan cheese in Milan. That is not to say it doesn’t exist - only due to the reasons mentioned above, I’ve never had it. However, options below in the “Places I Haven’t Been” category.
My favourite pizza place in Milan is Piccola Ischia, which has several locations around the city. It is an authentic Neapolitan pizzeria - and by now we all know that Naples pizza is the only pizza worthy of that name. The dough, which is the most important part of the pizza, is spot on. Downside: painfully hard to get a table.
I’m also a big fan of Marghe. They have vegan specials which are creative and interesting. Cannellini bean hummus base? Yes please!
Lunch/Buffet
I adore Alhambra, a buffet where you pay by weight. Homely, veggie-rich meals in the centre of Milan - all at a very reasonable price. The team behind this place used to also own a café of the same name that had an amazing tiramisù, but I believe it has closed down (please correct me in the comments if I’m wrong!).
I’m a giant fan of Artisti del Vegetariano - it’s not a buffet in the sense that Alhambra is, but it has a similar kind of system where you can fill your plate with multiple goodies. And trust me, this place is worth a visit. Fresh and seasonal but at the same time indulgent, it’s a perfect lunch or aperitivo spot.
Quick bite
If you’re at the Central Station in Milan and you’re hungry, you’re much better off now than you would have been a few years ago. Where before we had to make do with crackers, now we have Base V Juicery. From superfood smoothies to quinoa wraps, this is exactly the kind of place I wish we had here in Brighton. If you know me, you’re aware that açai bowls and avocado on toast is my diet to a tee, so this place is right up my street.
Something a little less newfangled and a bit more iconic is Luini, a tiny little hole-in-the-wall bakery in central Milan that has been around since 1888! Luini specialises in panzerotti: a samosa-like delicacy that’s originally made with cheese. But guess what, these days Luini serves a vegan version! My husband used to cut class with his friends to come here and eat panzerotti as a teenager, and I’m so glad that I’ve finally managed to partake in this childhood memory of his. Don’t miss this slice of Milan history.
Burgers
After all these years, I still love Flower Burger - and not just because of the rainbow of hues. These multi-flavoured burgers are a taste experience, deviating from the classic burger-and-fries model to inject a jolt of colour into the burger experience. Try it!
Aperitivo
An aperitivo is a Milan must - especially in the Navigli area, where artificial canals are surrounded by bars, cafés and a lively buzz. I might be a bit biased because I used to live there, but the Navigli area is one of my favourite places in the world.
My favourite place to enjoy a vegan aperitivo is Momo, on the Ripa di Porta Ticinese. Their aperitivo is like a proper dinner - we’ve enjoyed their vegan offerings several times, and each time it was spectacular. I’m talking veggies and dip, dough balls, focaccia…the works. And a great Aperol Spritz too!
Bakeries
Ahh, finally we get into my favourite territory. I could talk about dessert and pastries all day - but let’s start with a good breakfast, shall we? And if you’ve been to Italy at all, you know that breakfast is cappuccino and croissant (that’s right, none of that savoury breakfast BS here). If you want the best vegan croissant of your life, and why wouldn’t you, then head to Nepà - the plant-based patisserie that has become a must-visit for me every time I am in town. Last time I was there, I enjoyed one of the best pistachio croissants of my life. I also like to get pastries for my mother-in-law from this gorgeous little eatery.
If you’re in the mood for more dessert (of course), then visit Leccornie, where pastry artisan Vito offers the most delightful creations that your non-vegan friends will gobble up without a thought to them being free from eggs and dairy. His secret? High-quality ingredients.
Places I’ve Not Been
As I said, I’m not the best guide when it comes to vegan food in Milan - because I’ve just got too much access to great food at home! But my connections in the vegan community all agree: Joia is the place to be for fine dining. Apparently, their Michelin-starred creations are truly worth the amazing reviews. Every time I go, I make a promise to myself that this time I’ll make it to Essenza Sushi - a 100% plant-based sushi spot that even features dessert sushi - but somehow never do, then end up kicking myself. Finally, there IS pizza with vegan cheese in Milan - at Linfa. And it’s gluten-free, if that’s a plus for you! Their menu seems innovative and refreshing. I’ll put it on my list…and hopefully make it there, and to the other places in this category, one day. Unless my mother-in-law has made artichokes, in which case apologies in advance!
Going to have to pop Milan on my places to visit soon list. For some reason, I had it in my head as being too industrial - wonder if I'm getting it confused with somewhere else. But also I love some of the UK cities that were traditionally industrial (e.g. Manchester, Liverpool), so shouldn't shy away, even if it is/was.
I'd also love to know what your mother-in-law cooks for you when you're there!
I bet the choice is easy when you have access to authentic Italian food but so good to see that cities like Milan are becoming more vegan friendly. Loved this post!