Vegan Food and Second-Hand Fashion in Hastings

Because (ethical) travel doesn't have to mean going far.

On an Easter weekend when everyone was hopping on a train and going to Brighton, my husband and I actually got out of here, for a change. Living in Brighton is magical not only because it is undeniably one of the most fun places on Earth, but also because the surrounding areas are filled with little hidden gems to discover. One of them is Hastings.

About an hour on the train from Brighton station, Hastings is mostly famous for the 1066 Battle of Hastings - it is a place that breathes history in a way that Brighton doesn’t, really. As soon as you get off the train here, you note how specks of history have remained alive throughout the city, living on in its architecture.

“I love Brighton,” David says. “But there isn’t much old stuff still around.”

That’s true, at least when it comes to architecture. But Hastings has cleverly interspersed its rich history with a unique, completely modern vibe. And that’s part of what makes this seaside town memorable.

We walk towards the Old Town, which is a smattering of colours, sounds, and impressions. People mill about, often with their dogs (SO many dogs. My indication of whether I like a city is usually whether there are dogs there, and this just might be the most dog-friendly town I’ve been to in a long time), shops play music, cups clink at outdoor table in front of sun-dappled coffee shops. It’s a spring bank holiday in England, in all its glory.

We go on a hunt for food. I’m a believer in trying local cuisine - and Hastings happens to be famous for fish and chips. Of course, it’s far from the only UK seaside town to be known for this iconic dish, but hey, you can never have too much of a good thing, and we happen to come across a place on the seafront that serves a vegan option, so the choice is made.

A Taste of Vitality is a peculiar place. Apparently, it used to be a vegan café called The Hempist, elements of which are still present in the Indian-British fusion restaurant today. I would have liked to visit it back then. Now, it looks every bit the vegan restaurant from the outside, save for a sign saying “Meat dishes available here” - probably to attract potential customers who turn up their noses at the prospect of a fully veggie offering. It’s disheartening to know that the world is so full of people that simply won’t give peas a chance.

We get a table all to ourselves in the upstairs seating area, with some nice reggae playing and a beautiful sea view. Please be warned: the upstairs bathroom is…in someone’s house. As there is nothing blocking the entrance, I mistakenly believe it’s the restaurant restroom, and wander into these people’s really nice bathroom.

Despite being the only customers for a while, our food takes quite a long time. When it arrives, the first thing that strikes me is that the chips are really nice! I’ve always been more of a skinny fries kinda gal, but I wolf these down like there’s no tomorrow. The fish is nicely fried - but it’s a chunk of banana blossom, with no effort to make it taste like fish. There isn’t any seaweed or anything like that. I’m a fan of BB, so all’s good with me. But if you’re more of a vegan fish connoisseur, then this might not hit the spot. David orders the spinach and aubergine curry with coriander rice and reports back that it is an absolute delight.

We wander up to the Hastings Castle, forgoing the famous cliff railways (not at all because someone is afraid of heights…!) and choosing to get a workout instead by following the steep paths and tiny stairways leading all the way up. Word of warning: the castle isn’t easy to find. Your phone will lead you astray, so best ask the many locals going for walks and enjoying the breath-taking views on the hills.

It’s mind-boggling that the remains of this castle have been around for almost a thousand years. One of the first Norman castles to have been built in England, this fascinating fortress has had its share of owners, inhabitants, and attackers. Today, it enjoys a constant flow of admiring visitors.

But what I find remarkable about this part of the city, nestled high above it, are the views. Wherever you look, there is a breathtaking panorama of the British seaside. The sun peeks out, and we go way over the recommended daily 10k steps by traipsing along the tiny paths flanked by greenery. Walking is a wonderful way to explore the corners of this town. Controversial opinion perhaps, but I’m glad we walked instead of opting for the railway lifts.

We then descend another narrow staircase back towards Old Town, ready for some vintage shopping.

The second-hand fashion scene in Hastings is impressive. Small - because the Old Town is quite tiny - but impressive. The little shops are filled with gems, from rare guitars and skateboard paraphernalia (the seafront hosts Source, the world’s biggest underground skate park, so the town is rife with skater culture) to one-of-a-kind designer clothing and accessories. My favourite shop is Mame’s Place, a glamorous second-hand boutique inspired by Auntie Mame, one of my favourite book characters (from Patrick Dennis’ amazing novel of the same name).

And do I take home a souvenir? You bet: I end up finding a faux-leather pencil skirt with cargo detailing at Mame’s - a year-round style that will look on point with a band tee or a chunky knit.

And of course, it wouldn’t be a Sascha and David trip without an afternoon coffee. I had been eyeing Hanushka Coffee House all while planning this trip, and if you’ve been following me since I travelled to Iceland, you know that nothing makes me happier than a bookshop that is also a coffee shop. Hanushka is a place of supreme loveliness - there is no other way to describe it. The walls are lined with books - I flip through an Audrey Hepburn memoir and a book on Sex and the City, while David in engrossed in one on the history of car racing. Something for everyone - and the coffee is top quality. I forget to ask for decaf, which normally is an afternoon must for me. But surprise: thanks to the coffee being well made, I experience none of the usual stomach aches and heart palpitations that I normally associate with excessive caffeine. While the sun filters over the books in the window, we sip our cappuccinos, lingering for just that little bit longer.

What better occasion than Easter to indulge in some vegan chocolate cake? The treat on offer at Hanushka is fudgy and gooey, with blueberries on top and chocolate icing that I could eat by the spoonful. We split the slice, but I think you can imagine who takes the biggest piece.

On a caffeine and sugar high, it’s time to continue the adventure.

We walk along the fairground on the seafront, watching families queue up for the attractions, kids getting their fill of candy cotton and even more dogs fresh from a dip in the sea. We take a stroll on the pebbled beach and descend into the skate park - which is spectacular, but empty. On a bank holiday Saturday! We agree that had this been in Brighton (or in David’s hometown of Milan), skateboarders would have been lining up to get in. But if I had lived here, you would have been able to find me at the skate park’s outdoor terrace pub-slash-food-hall on most sunny weekend afternoons.

We end our day at the Hastings pier. Ah, piers. Living in seaside towns and cities has given me a particular love of them. While Brighton Pier is my home and Santa Monica Pier is the most spectacular one of them all (on the flip side, Eastbourne Pier is quite forgettable in my opinion), Hastings Pier has a certain tranquility about it. Beach huts offering food and drinks line the edges, while a tiny fairground attracts visitors of all ages. It’s a great finishing touch to what has been a truly perfect Easter Saturday.

Wearing:

Jumpsuit, Depop

Coat, Oxfam

Bag, Tommy Hilfiger

Shoes, NAE Vegan

All photos by me except for those of me. Those are by David Camilli.