Tacos Sin Queso: Vegan in Playa del Carmen, Mexico
The food was absolutely marvellous. My Spanish, not so much.
"Tacos vegetarianos. Sin queso.”
The waitress looks at me, confused, as the birds chirp above our heads in the 28-degree evening heat. She explains that yes, but the tacos do come with cheese, and seems quite perplexed at the idea that someone should not want it.
“Somos veganos,” I try again. I am at Nativo, in the heart of Playa del Carmen, Mexico, and I’m not yet aware that this quirky spot will, indeed, turn out to be a vegan paradise. But once the language barrier is crossed and my husband and I can dig into some of the best tacos we’ve ever had, life is good.
Nativo is just a short walk from Anana Coliving, a digital-nomad living space that is our home for our two mid-January weeks in Quintana Roo. Our room is on the top floor, which somewhat alleviates my biggest fear about being in Mexico: coming across creepy crawlies. And indeed, in the full two weeks, we encounter but one tiny cockroach.
One of the best things about Anana, aside from the friendly vibes and communal meals, is the location. We are a short walk from our two favourite hangouts: the beach and the Quinta Avenida. Most mornings, after a slow breakfast at Anana's outdoor communal space, we take a stroll to the beach through the colourful buzz of the Quinta. Tourists mix with locals as the sun floods the streets. Every couple of minutes, someone approaches, attempting to sell us something: boat tours, hair styling, massages, or...drugs.
We have our morning coffee at Fusion, a beachside bar, before a walk from Playa Fundadores all the way to Playa Mamitas and back, often encountering local wildlife on the way: on our second day, we see pelicans. This is a trip highlight for me - seeing animals in their natural habitats is one of the main reasons why I want to travel.
Our first day welcomes David with perfect surfing conditions, and as he is catching a wave, a pelican dives headfirst into the water next to him to catch his breakfast. Most days, these big birds hang out by the fishermen - for obvious reasons.
Lazy afternoons, often with a Sol beer, are spent at Parque Fundadores - a lively beachside park with relaxed vibes where mariachi bands play next to beach volleyball tournaments. On an almost daily basis, traditional Mayan performances happen in the park. The Voladores de Papantla in particular is a must-see: this Mexican dance is performed from atop a 25-metre pole, where the "flying dancers" tie themselves by the feet and come spinning down progressively towards the ground. We also watch the Mayan war dances, inhaling the scent of palo santo that wafts through the dusk.
On our second day in town, there is a vegan market - I do have a knack for finding these things wherever I go. Veganisarte’s event in Parque la Ceiba is a vibrant affair with smoothies, more tacos (of course) and even a dog-adoption fair. I want to stay forever.
It rains in the morning when we take the bus to Tulum, but the sun peeks out behind the clouds again when we find ourselves standing in front of centuries-old Mayan ruins. The centuries-old city, which is believed to have been built sometime between 1200 and 1450 AD, is one of the last cities constructed and inhabited by the Mayans. The ruins are perched over some of the most stunning beaches I've ever seen. Beaches that later we will learn are almost entirely empty. Just miles and miles of blinding white sand caressed by turquoise waters. Taking a swim, I turn to David and exclaim, "can you believe it’s January?" That day, we have more tacos - this time at Don Cafeto, a touristy yet delicious Mexican restaurant within the Tulum ruins area. I have a watermelon juice, one of my favourite drinks in the world.
I promised myself not to leave Mexico without having seen an iguana, and I won't have to: iguanas have made the Mayan ruins their home, sunbathing serenely on rocks all over the park. But this isn't the last interesting animal sighting that awaits us.
Another thing that I am itching to cross off my Mexico bucket list is taking a swim in the cenotes - the open freshwater caves that have become one of the area's most prominent tourist attractions. We end up at the Cenote Azul, halfway between Playa del Carmen and Tulum. Despite buzzing with tourists, somehow it doesn't feel too busy - I even manage to snap a couple of those elusive photos with no other people in them. The water is cool and still, a contrast from the warm, lively waves of the sea. The only movement is that of the tiny fish who - word of warning - will bite your feet if you stand still too long.
Leaving the cenote, I spot something moving in the woods. It takes me a few seconds to realise that this was not a bird but an agouti - another of the animals I really wanted to see in Mexico. I don’t manage get my phone out on time to immortalise the sighting, but watching this little creature waddling their way through the jungle will always stay etched into my mind.
But things are about to take a turn. One night, I am awakened by the unmistakable sound of my husband vomiting his guts out in the bathroom. David doesn't get out of bed for two days, his fever rising. I vaguely recall washing vegetables in tap water and curse our carelessness. I rush around town on a hunt for a thermometer, paracetamol, anti-vomiting pills (necesito algo para las náuseas, I attempt in the supermarket). I cook broth in the 30-degree heat and google ambulances, in case things get worse.
Luckily, they don't. On the second day, David is better but remains in bed, leaving me to explore Playa del Carmen on my own. I sit at Peace & Bowl and enjoy the best smoothie bowl of my life and go to rooftop yoga at the Green Village Eco Boutique Hotel. Wandering around on my own, I wrestle with the niggling sense of guilt at how calm and peaceful this day feels, despite my husband’s ordeal.
The following day, David is back on his feet and we attempt to hit the beach - only to be caught in torrential rain. It rains for four days straight, which is apparently very unusual here. Lucky us.
We pass the time by slowly venturing back into our favourite pastime: food. From vegan pizza at Coral to more smoothie bowls at Aloha Raw Bar and hoja santa leaf rolls at picturesque beachside eatery Vidanta, we indulge when we can - until I'm struck down with a lighter version of whatever David had, and spend a rainy day watching Netflix through agonising stomach cramps. This time, it's David making me broth.
As the rain fades, we return to the beach. We meet an Italian couple at Anana and spend a morning at the Choco Story chocolate museum with them. We have more smoothie bowls at the wonderful Bio Natural. We venture to Comet 984, the world's first vegan Fifties diner, where we share one of the best burgers in recent memory and what is definitely the best vegan Oreo milkshake ever.
On our last day in Playa, I don't eat anything. That burger and milkshake come with a steep price to pay, and my stomach bug is back with a vengeance. As David wolfs down tempeh noodles at Bio Natural, I only ingest coconut water and synthetic-tasting electrolyte drinks. This means, unfortunately, that I miss out on Plantivoros, which absolutely everyone has advised me to visit. But that only means that I will have to come back.
I would very much advise vegans to visit Playa del Carmen. It is a plant-based haven and a must-visit for vegan travellers. Only tip: don’t touch the tap water.
The Tulum ruins look absolutely marvelous. I appreciate you sharing this. Did they say what the story/history was of the place?