Cream Dream London: My Quest For a Vegan Eclair

The lengths we go to for an egg-free choux pastry

Important note: this post is not sponsored in any way, shape or form. It is a completely unbiased ode to vegan eclairs.

Funny story: when I first went vegan, I didn’t know that vegan desserts were a thing. I imagined that all cakes had eggs and that was that. I knew that vegan desserts existed in the US, but I imagined the US to be this promised land of veganism, with Europe falling far behind when it came to plant-based sweet treats. I figured that I would just have to learn how to bake.

Now might be a good point to mention that I have the biggest sweet tooth of anyone you’ve ever met. Seriously - my passion for desserts, cakes, anything sweet is unparalleled.

Well, at the very beginning of my vegan transition, I had just moved to London, and during my first week there, I came across the Ruby's of London vegan cupcake stall at a market. Safe to say I was in heaven - but also, it’s quite an indication of how dedicated I was to my vegan ethos. I was ready to give up the things I loved the most! Seven years later, Ruby’s catered my book release party in London, in a beautiful full-circle moment.

Since then, things have transformed: vegan desserts are on every corner, at least here in the south of England where I live. And it’s not your standard granola bars, either. From huge Biscoff donuts and maple syrup-soaked pancakes to delectable cinnamon buns, gooey brownies and fudge-oozing chocolate cakes, my dentist sure is making a fortune these days. But one thing has evaded the world of vegan sweets until now: eclairs.

Notoriously difficult to veganise, this French pastry is the Holy Grail of plant-based desserts. The pastry chefs who manage to make vegan eclairs correctly are excruciatingly few (we’re talking a handful in the world), and it is with extreme sadness that I recall the day when I fell prey to a hand-written sign saying “eclair!” at a vegan festival, only to find in my hand a hot-dog bun with dairy-free whipped cream on it (nope, not kidding), which cost me £4 that could have been spent on a brownie. Luckily, a hungry friend was nearby and I was able to unload the unlucky dessert on him (that’s right, I passed up a sweet treat. That’s how bad it was).

My fond memories of eclairs hail back to my childhood in Russia, long before I had any awareness of the issues behind the egg industry and happily sunk my milk teeth into the rich layer of chocolate on top of the air-light choux pastry, after my grandmother lovingly unwrapped her bakery purchases on our kitchen table. Growing up, a well-made chocolate eclair, filled with silky smooth ganache, was the ultimate indulgence - one I had begrudgingly given up when going vegan. So, when I heard that Cream Dream patisserie in London was selling plant-based eclairs, I was interested but wary. Surely, I thought, these people will not have managed to master the un-masterable.

Located a four-minute walk from Charing Cross Station, Cream Dream is an Instagram paradise. Its pink and gold interiors, awash with luscious flowers and greenery, is not only inviting but also extremely photogenic. The place is dog-friendly, entirely vegan and gluten-free, and uses no refined sugar in its creations.

But that is not the most special thing about Cream Dream. You see, one thing you notice across the shop is their unwavering support for the people of Ukraine. From a big, illuminated map of the country on the wall to pro-Ukraine stickers - this is no coincidence. This café is run by Ukrainian refugees, some of whom at the time of my visit have not been in the UK longer than a few months, which is indicated on signs excusing their English (which, for the record, is flawless). The founder herself, Yelyzaveta Tataryna, is also a refugee from Ukraine. Her plan was to launch her vegan patisserie shop in her hometown of Kyiv - but following the Russian invasion, she was forced to flee. In an admirable feat, Yelyzaveta didn’t give up on her dream patisserie shop, bringing that dream to London with her. Behind the dreamy pink exterior lies a true testament to human strength and resilience. The staff’s passion for their delicacies but also support for their homeland, is evident in everything they do, down to the amazingly beautiful flowering Ukrainian tea the shop offers.

The desserts on offer at Cream Dream range from macarons and pistachio tarts to a coffee cake that I simply must try next time and a lemon-shaped dessert that looks so lifelike that my first reaction is “oh, there is a lemon in the cake display, how novel”. Rather than white sugar, these treats are made using different kinds of sweeteners such as agave syrup (brown sugar does make an appearance in caramel cakes) and all are fully gluten-free and vegan. Each creation is so beautiful that you’ll reach for your wallet just to experience the visual lushness as well as the flavour.

And speaking of getting your wallet out, be warned: this place is not a cheap date. The Carpathian tea is £5 (but you get a large teapot, definitely big enough to share) and cakes go up to £10. However, it can be argued that high patisserie isn’t made to be low-cost. And as an indulgence it’s 100% worth it.

But let’s get down to the reason why you clicked on this post: ECLAIRS.

I barely got my foot in the door before asking about them, and the staff informed me that it was my lucky day - the pastry chef (the insanely talented Dmitry Kolendzian) was making them in that very moment. They wouldn’t be ready until later, but would I mind sticking around?

My mind was cast back to my most recent trip to Paris, when I trekked all the way to the iconic VG Patisserie with the hope of an eclair…only to find out they didn’t have any that day. Sure, I ended up having an Opera which was worth the trip! I also remembered that time an acquaintance, who’s an accomplished vegan pastry chef, was holding a vegan afternoon tea in Brighton where she’d be presenting her new eclairs. Of course, that very weekend I was away on a trip to Sicily. So, now that I was here, with another rare opportunity to sample a vegan eclair, was I going to let it slip through my fingers? Was I going to give up, just because of a slight inconvenience like having to wait? No way. I got comfortable and ordered some of that flower tea for the meantime.

“We will only have Snickers eclairs today,” said the barista a bit apologetically, as if she wasn’t casually describing my absolute dream come true. Heart emojis flew from my eyes.

Sipping on my flowering tea, I threw not-so-discreet glances in the direction of the kitchen every three to four minutes. And as soon as the gold-covered, nut-topped masterpieces were ready, I set off towards the till with the eagerness of a five-year-old rushing towards the presents underneath the Christmas tree. And let me tell you, my excitement was justified.

This was exactly what I remembered an eclair to be like: delicate choux pastry filled with smooth hazelnut cream, topped with a chocolate ganache and whole hazelnuts. Only this one was also slathered in shimmery, edible gold (at Cream Dream, the eyes eat as much as the mouth). I tried my best to make it last for as long as possible, but resistance proved futile and I wolfed it down in minutes. An absolute delight and a total triumph for vegan patisserie, proving once again that doing the impossible…is possible!

This should be more than enough to squash any myths about needing eggs to bake. So many skilled vegan bakers and pastry chefs have told me that eggs are unnecessary and don’t even always need to be replaced with anything. In this case, it’s evident that vegan desserts can be every bit as tasty as non-vegan counterparts, if not more so. Add to that the fact that Cream Dream’s range is gluten-free, and you’ve got a truly inclusive offering that’ll have anyone coming back for seconds.

Well done, patisserie wizards. You will see more of me (and when you do, hide the eclairs if you want your other customers to have a chance).

Where to find Cream Dream: 46 Bedford Street, London WC2E 9HA

All photos by me